Toronto Salon
Toronto Salon
Demi, Semi, Permanent

What is the difference between Semi, Demi and Permanent hair colour?

There is a lot of confusion and misinterpretation between the three categories of hair colour.

Permanent Colour

Uses indirect dyes which require Oxygen to develop.

Peroxide is stabilized oxygen.

To the surprise of most people, Peroxide on its own won’t do much of anything to your hair, it may lighten it slightly over the course of many hours.

When you mix oxygen with the alkalizing agent, (ammonia or a derivative of) you not only get the deposit or development of the pigments, you get the lifting or lightening of the natural hair pigments. This lightening produces brassy, warm tones in the hair thus making it a permanent result even after the indirect dyes have faded away.

Also the alkalizing agent brings mixed product from acidic (peroxide) to alkaline, which opens up the hair cuticles. This is especially needed at the scalp where the cuticles are new, tightly packed and smooth.

Demi Permanent Colour

Uses the same dyes as Permanent colour. Indirect dyes.

Has no Lift, it will not lighten the hair. Therefore leaving your hair as it was before the service, once the colour eventually fades out.

Keep in mind not all Demi colours are created equal, and many salons, and many solons don’t use them at all.

Most manufacturers cheat the the category by changing the percentage of developer (Peroxide) as to not lift the hair.

This allows them not having to reformulate a whole new line which is expensive, and harder to manage.

They sell it as a Demi, when in fact they are using a highly alkaline Permanent colour with a high PH that swells and opens the cuticle, drying out and damaging the ends of your hair.

Eventually leading to the degradation of the shaft and faster fading dryer looking colour. You can also achieve this undesired result by adding the Alkaline colour at the end of the service, for the "last five minutes"

This is why I use the only Acid colour in the industry. It is far more expensive in comparison but the results are by far more superior and gentler to your hair. I know the difference and believe me you will as swell.

Semi Permanent Colour.

Uses Direct dyes. they do not need developer.
There is no mixing involved.
They are very bright reds, blues, pinks, greens.
They stain the hair.
They require pre lightening, either chemically or environmentally.
The lighter your hair, the brighter the result.

Remo Rinaldi
Master Certified Hair Colour Technician, Educator.

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